The Budding Perfumer – Yvonne Twomey

It’s been a long time in the making (ok, a few months), but I’m finally ready to reveal The Budding Perfumer – Yvonne Twomey page.

I hope it proves to be an inspiring read for any perfumista, perfume appreciator, fellow budding perfumer, or anyone for that matter! It was the most fun I’ve had on my perfume journey, not to mention a highly important learning experience. It’s also the beginning of a growing portfolio of perfumery learning and I’ll be adding more perfumers in the future, sharing their knowledge and my learning.

So this post will be brief as everything you want to read is on the Yvonne Twomey – Budding Perfumer page.

Terranova – Sublime

So pretty, so pretty, hmm smells like springtime. Haha, smells like springtime.

Blending Exercise #2

Since being here in Montreal with Paul, a very special man, we’ve wanted to create something perfumed of our own. We both share a love for fragrance and the idea of experimenting ourselves and seeing what we can come up with was exciting to say the least.

Massage oil is one of the easiest ways to experiment with perfume blending. We’re by no means accomplished perfumers in the slightest, but hey, we were really chuffed with what we created and it was a fun evening spending time together doing something we both love.

We set out to create a blend that smelled romantic, masculine, captivating and reminiscent of each other.

Starting out

It was important to set the scene. We had sweeties and glasses of wine at the ready not to mention the essential oils we felt best suited our little brief.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 1
= Very vetiver smelling. Paul gets a meat thing smell, something like venison or forest animals. To me it smells very vetiver and not much sandalwood.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 4
= Paul thinks sandalwood is starting to emerge. Still smells mostly of vetiver to me.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 4
Black pepper 3
= Creamy vetiver, peppery’ness coming through. Paul gets sandalwood now.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 7
Black pepper 3
= Great. The black pepper has levelled off the vetiver dominance. Paul says, “Pepper is sexy, at the back, wow.” I think it smells black and green, with hints of brown and creamy vetiver, it’s not as strong now either.

Paul’s smelling the bottle of geranium and ylang side by side to see if they go well together. The ylang is closer to his nose, as if he wants more of it and less of geranium. He doesn’t like geranium as much. We don’t have much floral oils to work with, and we have a change of heart. Smelling neroli next to the bottle of our blend we like how it smells instead.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 7
Black pepper 3
Ylang 2
= Interesting. Paul’s trying to think what neroli would be like with it, “Slightly floral, wood in the base, the more I smell the more the flower comes through. It’s good.” I think the ylang has that gummy quality to it, floral and slightly medicinal, I like how it sits with the wood too, and boy is it strong.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 7
Black pepper 3
Ylang 2
Neroli 3
= We were unsure about the amount of ylang, we thought the neroli would help take the strength off. It smells floral and fresh, like everything up until now was missing something on top, top notes. “This is a fun process,” Paul says, “Like it’s learning to make music with your nose. Why should it be reserved to noses in Paris? It’s fun.” I agree so much :)

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 7
Black pepper 3
Ylang 2
Neroli 4
= It’s somewhat fresh. Paul questions if we should add more neroli. My feeling is that, I like the ylang, but it’s dominant. I’d like to add more support to it, therefore more neroli could help.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 7
Black pepper 3
Ylang 2
Neroli 5
= I don’t think it’s making a difference. Paul wants more neroli. Then we’re done with it.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 7
Black pepper 3
Ylang 2
Neroli 7
= Wow. It has really changed. It’s sexy. We take a two minute break and come back to it. Something smells muddy to me, maybe it’s the ylang and vetiver? Paul’s wondering if it’s like muddy wood too. We’re thinking of adding some citrus to lift it. We go for bergamot because it will work with the neroli. Paul is smelling it side by side, says it looks nice. That everything so far is serious. The bergamot could help and we go for it.

Vetiver 3
Sandalwood 7
Black pepper 3
Ylang 2
Neroli 7
Bergamot 2
= It’s fresh. “I like working with Liam,” I’m told. I like working with Paul :) We put Caribou on. He thinks the bergamot is connecting the materials. Maybe it’s making the vetiver less muddy, it smells uplifting now. Vetiver is still there. Crazy uh?

We’re guessing by association here. We call it a day. Paul mentions that it smells quite piney, it kind of does. Like maybe the ylang and citrus is doing this?

We add 50ml of sweet almond oil based on a ratio of 20 drops to 50ml recipe.

The vetiver is very present to begin. After a minute, it settles and I can smell the neroli. At first I thought it was all muddy but after applying it on my skin I’m totally changed. Vetiver is still there and it’s even a little sophisticated, smokey too. The neroli has real projection and perhaps we were a little generous with it’s quantity. Sometimes when smelling it, it’s chocolatey but it by no means smells muddy or messy now. It smells considered, simple all the same, but very good. We’re very happy because we achieved what we set out to do, create something romantic, manly and close to smell on the skin.

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What do you think?

Shared a perfume blending experience before? Like the idea of vetiver and neroli? Have you tried to make a massage oil before, or scented candles for that matter?

Totally Dublin – Smell The Love

Valentine’s Day, the day of lovey-dovey-smoochy-schmultzy gestures and gift giving. I’m personally not that bothered by all the giggity in the air. I am bothered by oversized (ahem) novelty cards and puppy plushies given as gifts. Gestures are sweet, but perfume is a sure fire way to get anyone in the mood for Valentine’s. As such I was asked to recommend three perfumes this February 14th to assist the guys and dolls reading Totally Dublin. Pick it up, it’s free all over Dublin town, turn to page 39 and you might get a few inspiring ideas to broaden that perfume closet of yours.

For Personal Odour readers (those not in Dublin), I’ve got the piece below.

The fragrance that will make your boyfriend want to fall in love with you again on Valentine’s day.

Love by Gorilla Perfume of Lush

What better way to fall in love this Valentine’s Day, than to fall in love, with Love. Created by the unconventional father and son perfumers Mark and Simon Constantine of Gorilla Perfume. The range can be found in Lush, Grafton Street and Lush, Henry Street.

This unisex fragrance was created out of all things romantic, young, sweet, flirty and even the tragic sour heartache all that lovey-dovey action can bring. You’d better pull out all the stops this Valentine’s Day.

Mark Constantine wanted to create a fragrance that will flirt for you, while you pretend indifference. He was inspired watching his sons grow up, falling in and out of love. The perfume itself is bright, bubbly, sweetly citrus and innocent all day long. At its core you’ll find a green apple note and sugary apple pie scent. They rest beside a gorgeous jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang accord. Love eh? Who needs it!

Must have fragrance for single men this February

Nocturna by Dalvey

Put away the celebrity scent. Drop that “sporty” aftershave. You want to be a man, right? But not just any man, a gentleman. Dalvey, a Scottish gentleman’s lifestyle boutique on Grafton Street, sells everything from hipflasks, shirts and most importantly, perfume.

Nocturna is without doubt, an original, sophisticated Eau de Cologne for men that have a flair for style. It plays on an aroma of spicy pepper and Italian mandarins when you first wear it. As the fragrances develops on your skin throughout the day you’ll begin to smell the fine notes of dry leather, spices and a faint touch of jasmine—just enough to ebb that macho exterior. By the end of the day, its warm amber vanilla base will be enough to make you feel just that little bit more assertive. It has an incredible tenacity and lasts all day, so remember fellas, a little goes a long way.

The fragrance for girls this spring

Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain

Dubbed as “The New Guerlain,” Shalimar Parfum Initial is your gateway-fragrance to French fragrance house Guerlain. If your sights are on indulgence and sensuality, smell no further than this pretty pink juice, in the most elegant of bottles.

Shalimar Parfum Initial is a younger, more innocent counterpart to its heavyweight cousin, Shalimar—released in 1925, a fragrance that defined perfume history forever. Parfum Initial is a contemporary interpretation of all that style, sophistication and sheer beauty.

When you wear this, you’ll lighten up with its sparkling top notes of sweet zesty oranges and bergamots—think of the most mouth-watering citrus juices, perfect for spring. At the heart of the fragrance lies rose, jasmine and iris. They represent all that is innocent and feminine, working for you, not against you. Throughout the day you’ll smell a light creamy vanilla, sweet sugar and warm amber aroma rising up, making your skin edible and inviting.

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What do you think?

Are you going wear a certain something special this Valentine’s? Sécrétions Magnifiques? Or something a bit more, romantic?

Challenging Smells in Winter

I’m in the thick of a typical winter. The air is bitingly cold, the ground is crunchy, slushy and there’s a crème brûlée crust on the fallen snow. It’s January in Montreal and my sense of smell is getting a treat.

Spring and summer are very much the olfactory seasons, when hedges and flowers are in bloom and a plethora of smells are being carried on the wind. Autumn is rich, deep and mature. In the winter you could be forgiven for thinking your nose is too blocked up, or sniffly at best to pick anything out (no pun intended!). I used to believe that smells were fewer and farther between in winter, even to the point sometimes of not being there at all.

A wintery truth

However as I’m beginning to notice here in Montreal, my nose is tuning into the really perceivable smells, those that stand out from the cool, crisp white. Smells, like hot peppery beef, moist, damp and mouthwateringly delicious. Smells, like the torrent of gushing warm, grey, metallic and silvery underground metro air—think of the bumper-cars/dodgems at a fairground blasting and rushing full-speed past you. A passer-by’s perfume, heavy and amber’y to stand out in the cold air. Smells, like the cosy home you’re in, warm faint coffee, old wooden floors. Smells, like the Cire Trudon candle, Empire, or the Jean-Claude Ellena perfumes spritzed in the morning—Bigarade Concentree and Angeliques Sous La Pluie, gentlemanly, sheer and close.

There’s a smell of promise, of possibility and good times.

Winter oases

A few nights ago at Igloofest, an icy outdoor electronic music gig, there were smells of burning smokey logs to warm up in front of. Smells of mulled wine, rich and festive. Frequent whiffs of pot too! The smoke lingered on my clothes for days, and my beard! The pot, did not.

I think it’s fascinating that in a season when the air can seem so clean, that it’s also somewhat barren. But there’s pockets of oases to be found, the aforementioned odours and some city smells that are universal the world over, fumes and food to name but two. I’ve already smelled typical car fumes, bus smells of plastic and fabric seating. Searing garlic frying, spewing out into the streets from restaurants. Chips, curries and spices too.

I think winter challenges you to be much more open to the idea that there are smells still out there in the freezing air. Those hardy, thick-skinned and ever-enduring odours. Like mighty bison they live on in winter.

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What do you think?

Is winter a good season to give that nose a good work out? (no pun intended!) Is it enjoyable having the downtime and letting your nose rest? Or are you always too blocked up to notice?

Goldfrapp – Human

They went searching for your body. They went looking but there’s nobody who smells like you. Who looks like you.

Perfumery Learning in Cork

I’ll keep this post short. Expect a much bigger feature over on The Budding Perfumer in the coming months.

In the last few days, Yvonne Twomey was extremely kind to let me into her home and lab to take part in The Budding Perfumer ethos, sharing perfume skills/knowledge in exchange for design/branding services. The experience was invaluable, the memories priceless and above all, I walked away inspired and encouraged.

I’ll let some of my photography do the talking.

Perfume mouilettes. Memorising upwards of 55 materials in one day.

A well deserved coffee break from olfactory memorising.

Feeling very comfortable and content in the lab working on a blend.

Learning how to note the weights as I progress with my formula.

Evening dinner by candlelight in Cork city, time to relax.